27 febbraio 2007

tanzania tips

Here are some travel tips about Tanzania collected in my recent trip. I used a lonely planet guidebook and I wrote some note only in case of lack or inaccurate information. Because infrastructures for independent travelers is quite limited, I guess these informations are suitable for other guidebooks too. Hope this helps.

Dar es Salaam
Is not so easy to find places serving beer. A good one is a bar near the fish market, on the seafront.
Jumheri Street is the road to go to eat. Sonny restaurant have good and various grilled meat. New passion restaurant serves beer and a meat-with-bananas stew. Kadri tea room is great for lunch with a llunch with a lot of Indian snacks (about 300 shillings) served with crushed coconut sauce.
I slept in safari inn, 20 USD double room with bathroom, good.
At Scandinavian bus station it is safe to take a free pickup to meru house inn, the hotel is good too, it costs 10000 Tsh (the price listed is little bit more, but it’s easy to have a discount), but avoid Victoria Expeditions (ground floor) for safaris (car breakdowns and program shorted). Since Arusha at night is quite scary, near meru inn there are a change and an internet point.
Near there, Arusha backpackers hotel costs 5/10/15 USD s/d/tr, looks better, but restaurant is expensive. Meru house restaurant is cheaper but serves backpacker food.
For Tanzanian dinner style (grilled meat eaten by hands, waiters coming with hot water for hand washing before and after dining) go to Pama bar in Wachanga road (better by taxi).
During safari, other safari operators as Sunny Safaris and Safari Makers looked better. At least they have better equipment, newer cars and gave essential tips to our driver to repair our car.
Shorting programs affects all guided tours in Tanzania, cultural programs too (healer is not here, knife maker went at market, and so on).

For accommodation, moshi backpacker hotel (ex Deville) looks good (4/8/12 dollars s/d/tr).
I went to a&a accommodation, 12000 tsh, good, no breakfast.
For food, East African Pub Inn have Tanzanian grill, lot of atmosphere, same road of a&a.
Hill restaurant serves cheap snacks for lunch (no beer, they are Muslim), if you don’t want to lunch with fruit in street stalls (pili-pili mango is great).
For sunset views of Kilimanjaro, take a beer at kindokoro hotel’s roof bar. His restaurant looks expensive, but has good atmosphere.
Is a very small town.
Tumaini hotel, good location, 17000 tsh, decent. There are two restaurants; one inside serves tourist food, one outside serves Tanzanian food, none of two serves beer.
Lushoto sun is not so good, but lets you bring beer from outside.
The best option to eat is near the bus station: at Checkpoint bar (where of course you can have all drinks and sit at table) there is a butcher/cook serving grilled beef for 2000 tsh/half kilo). In front of this, you can buy (and bring) mishikaki at 200 tsh and Tanzanian food like ugali.
Irente viewpoint: easy walk, don’t need guide, it takes 1 hour and half one way. You’ll meet villages and many people, luckily few cars. Irente farm’s picnic lunches are a good deal (3000 tsh), it’s worth to buy cheese (2500 for a 350 gr. piece).
Near catholic church there is a football court where it’s easy to join locals to play (from 4 p.m. to sunset)

Ocean breeze hotel was full, so I went in malindi hotel (12000 tsh double with bathroom), quite good.
Patwas restaurant have very good juices.
Kurutu camping’s restaurant is expensive (dishes from 10000 tsh), but is worth at least for various shrimps menu page. If you want to dine there, consider that you’ll have to add taxi fares to reach restaurant from downtown Tanga to restaurant bill.
Mary Nice Place is an example of how a guidebook mention can be a fortune for a place and a ruin for each other: not so nice, not so cheap (15000 Tsh per double room), far and in the middle of nowhere, has dilapidated rooms (no mosquito nets). Breakfast is not included, costs 2500 Tsh per person. Thanks to lonely planet they put many signposts in town and they are building more rooms.
If you have lp guidebook (this means you don’t have other options for accommodation), the best option is to go at tourism school information office, and buy a town map (actually is a photocopy of bradt guidebook map) for 2000 tsh (expensive, but includes an offer to the school) where you can find at least other 10 lodges.
Other hotels are on the seaside but sea is not very clean in the strip from mission to kaole ruins.
For local food, New Top Life bar restaurant serves ugali with fish for about 2500 tsh.

Union beach decent bungalows with sea views cost 30 USD.
“Mama restaurant local dishes” is basic but serves good ugali with chicken for 1500 Tsh
Beach restaurants for dinner have all same price (8000/10000 seafood main course):
Baraka has small menu and slow service;
Fat fish has wide portions, quick and attentive service and large menu (most grill) and real sea view;
Moose goose pub: quick and wide, Zanzibar cuisine dishes (if you can see the difference);
Langi langi: not extended menu, don’t serves beer, decent quality, quantity and waiting time.
In 20 minutes walk south you can reach kendwa, highly recommended, no danger of muggings as many people do it, virtually every spot is great for swimming.
Kendwa beach is more beautiful than Nungwi but atmosphere is different because there are many expensive resorts (insistent sellers).
From Nungwi walking north, behind dhow harbour, there is a lighthouse and a turtles aquarium (entry 2 USD or 2500 TSH; often staff mishandle turtles in order to show you better, ask to not do) and a very hot water beach (beware of small jellyfish).
For beach football at sunset, the best places are the two beaches just south of cholo bar.
Cholo bar, with hammocks and other weirdness, is the place where all tourists, and all locals wanting to interact with tourists, go to drink. To find local people's bars, follow the music and/or lights.
Transport: if you book a shuttle bus from stone town to nungwi (5 USD) ask if some passenger is going to kendwa (in this case the trip is 1 hour longer as road is horrible).
Stone town
Accommodation: victoria, florida, malindi, flamingo hotel are all about 30 USD double with bath.
I slept at pyramid hotel, 25 USD double with bath. Traditional Zanzibar style rooms and beds, good breakfast with fruits on the roof (not panoramic).
Monsoon restaurant has attracting menu, atmospheric site, sitting on pillows, good food, is worth for a luxury dinner (10000 tsh main course), of course you’ll not see locals dining there. Note that side dishes are the most part of main course (nevertheless are good too).
House of wonders is worth a visit, for views and expositions.
Street food: are available mangoes, jackfruit, cassava, coconuts, corn.
In forodhani gardens, food is various and attractive, until you’ll not realize that is the same for days and days (is already cooked, by the way).
Beer is very expensive, 3000 tsh and there is no way to bargain.

7 commenti:

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conteoliver ha detto...

From thorn tree:

Just a few comments:

I find it very surprising that you had a hard time finding a place that serves beer in Dar! There are bars (local and expat / tourist) all over the place.

About Kendwa: There is ONE up-market resort (Gemma dell' Est, also known as Renco), the other ones are all budget to mid-range places just like in Nungwi. It's true, though, with Gemma the beach vendors of Tinga Tinga etc. have arrived in Kendwa with quite a long row of shops, all selling the same stuff.
You say there is "no danger of mugging" between Nungwi and Kendwa - this is simply not true, there have been muggings as well as (attempted) rapes during the day. In places where the rocks and bushes on top come very close to the water someone can jump out quickly and disappear again with your stuff before anyone else walking a few hundred metres away from you will have been able to do anything. I'm not saying that it is too dangerous to walk there and I have walked it many times, but people should be aware that is has happened and use a bit of caution.

Regarding the shuttle - there are three ways they do it: If there are enough people, they will have different buses, some going to Kendwa, some to Nungwi. In low season they often have "mixed" buses, meaning that either the Nugwi passengers will have to sit through the uncomfortable Kendwa road, or the Kendwa passengers will have to wait around in Nungwi for a while to drop off and oick up customers before being dropped off at Kendwa on the way back. Not great, but considering the price not so bad either. A private taxi will cost you at least $35-40.

And finally the beer in Stonetown - again, am a bit surprised that you had to pay Tsh3000 (where was that?). Last time I was there in August, even the top hotels didn't charge more than 2500, and there were still places where you got a beer for between Tsh 1000 and 1500.

Anyway, hope you enjoyed your trip, I'm ging back there in 3 weeks time :-)


I think Africa House Hotel is now 3000, Serena 3500, Mercury's at least 2500, Old Fort restaurant 2200, Coco de mer and Starehe 1200 (but not been there for months), Sunrise 1500, New Happy =CLOSED!

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Stephen ha detto...

I've been living in Arusha, and staying at Meru House Inn on the weekends for about 6 months. The staff caught word that I was leaving the country this week, and while I was out at dinner, used a key to enter my room and steal my Laptop, backup hard drives, 2 Canon cameras, and a few other small things. I thought I could trust the staff after 6 months of patronage, but I was gravely mistaken. I do not recommend going to Meru House Inn - safe yourself the worry, pay a few dollars more, and go to Arusha Backpackers across the street. They have a better bar and restaurant anyway...happy travels.

Eric ha detto...

Unfortunately this is not the first time guests have gotten things stolen from their room at Meru House Inn. Same thing happened to a friend of mine, the manager used the key to get into his room and stole his Ipod. The police arrested the owner and one of the managers and they hade to pay a fine to the police but he never got his Ipod back nor any money.
The police should close that place down!
Stay away from Meru House Inn Guest House!!

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